One if by Sea

Yes! but you don't go.

2012-02-10T23:13:00.000+11:00

The residents of the abode, Jayne and Brad, have returned, thus relieving me of the crushing weight of responsibility that is two chooks and a dog (and, given what happened to one of the chooks, thank god they didn't leave me with the kid). I have been forgiven for losing the chook, but it looks unlikely I'll be allowed to forget.

I haven't quite got around to leaving, yet. They have been quite kind about not kicking me out. I am here muddling around doing stuff and things. Jayne got me organised and edited for an article I wrote on Iran. I have sent it off with my fingers crossed and I'm now obsessively checking my email to see if anyone likes it and wants to publish it.

I think I am still housesitting.

2012-02-07T23:31:00.003+11:00

You see, they came back. The people who belong to the house.

But now they are gone again.

More Housesitting.

2012-02-06T16:33:00.001+11:00

Housesitting, day fifteen.

2012-02-05T23:46:00.000+11:00

I lost the dog twice yesterday and three times today. One of the times yesterday, right I fed her, she went over to the neighbours' house and told them she was hungry and lonely and could they please feed her dinner?

I was going to go to the farmers' market yesterday, but, owing to a comical series of events, mostly involving absent mindedness, I wasn't able to get cash out because my debit card is in another part of the state. Notice how I was not specific as to actually where it is? Indeed, I am only 80% sure it is in Australia. The last time I saw it was on the way to the airport for the flight to Singapore.

Nine months ago.

The chook is well. I have not let her out of her cage since she hit her head, but she has been enjoying all the little chook-treats I have been finding for her.

There were only three new zucchini, today. That was nice because, even though I have discovered this great new way of cooking them with cheese, my zucchini consumption has dropped to one a day.

Housesitting, day thirteen

2012-02-03T23:44:00.001+11:00

I write the day number in the post title, and suddenly it all becomes clear.

I sent the dog to bed early last night because she'd jumped in poo and she stank. I did let her out for half an hour though at about 10.30pm so that she could take care of anything that needed taking care of.

When I got up this morning the smell of dog poo was quite strong. I thought 'Oh gross, she's got some on the carpet some how and I'll have to clean it'. Then I went through to the bit where she sleeps and, actually, there on the tiles was a giant pile of poo.

I took care of it and sent the dog outside.

And went to let the chook out for the day.

The chook that was fine last night.

And was now covered in blood.

I freaked out. I called Mum (that's what you do in a crisis, right?). I left the chook in it's cage with lots of delicious chook treats, then took the dog for a walk.

When we got back I decided to leave the dog outside. I may have been a teensy bit cross with her about having to clean up all that poo. And she smelled. And she wanted to sit on me.

The next thing I knew, she had eaten one of the plants I had been specifically told to take good care of. Eaten it. Pulled it right out of the pot and chewed it to tiny bits.

Then she chewed MY plant that I have been nursing back to health.

I nearly had an anxiety attack, right there on the spot.

The chook seems to be fine. I've taken the dog on another two walks. I didn't actually SEE her go, but she must have, right? She can't be saving it up to do a repeat performance, right?

I have given the neighbours all the zucchini and they are going to do a vegetable swap at the farmers market tomorrow.

February second.

2012-02-02T23:54:00.000+11:00

Train stations are fabulous. So much potential.

Ducks are better, so ducky.

When I was little, I was quite sure that dandelion clocks were magical.

I still think it sometimes, when no one is about to catch me.

I am coming back in a few weeks to help deal with these, yes indeedy.

Housesitting, day twelve

2012-02-02T23:30:00.000+11:00

A splendid day.

I got plenty done on the train in the morning. Hung out with lovely, crafty people. Caught the train home. And got nothing done. When we got on, they said the air con would take a minute because they had only just hooked up the engine. We were on the train for forty minutes before they told us that the air con actually wasn't working in our carriage and we were welcome to go and sit in one of the reserved carriages.

I actually thought I might expire at one point, you couldn't even open a window. I have given myself RSI from fanning myself with my book.

The dog was so happy to see me that she couldn't stand up properly, her legs were shaking so much. I have banished her to her room because she accidentally stepped in something stinky.

Self portrait, with sunflower.

2012-02-01T22:51:00.001+11:00

This morning I tried to take a self portrait with one of the sun flowers, but the sun was really really bright and I couldn't get a shot with my eyes open.

But while these crazy kids face the morning sun, they don't turn around to check out the evening sun. Problem solved.

Hello Sunflower!

I Love! sunflowers.

Housesitting, day eleven.

2012-02-01T17:46:00.000+11:00

Is it weird that I am craving zucchini? Earlier today, I suddenly desperately thought, 'Can I have a zucchini, now?' and I counter thought, 'Not now, you'll spoil your dinner' and then I thought ????

The dog has forgiven me for scaring her and we are once again having an ongoing negotiation about personal space, boundaries and dog breath.

The chook has not returned and I have not heard her again.

When I was out mucking about in the garden, I decided to do a bit of weeding because areas are quite over taken. I stopped not long later when I went 'OOO deadly nightshade, let's get rid of that' and stopped just in time when I realised it had tiny chillies on it.

Check strawberries for bugs before you put them in your mouth.

The photos that go with the housesitting.

2012-01-31T16:51:00.001+11:00

Cousin of the bee that bit me. 22nd January 2012.

The last egg? Since that one chook disappeared, there have been no new eggs. 23rd January 2012

Picnic in Fitzroy Gardens. 24th January 2012.

Sunflowers. 25th January 2012

Glut of zucchini. 26th January 2012

arcadia on Gertrude Street, catching up with a travel friend. 27th January 2012

Morning sky. 28th January 2012.

Comedy squash. 28th January 2012.

More sunflowers. 29th January 2012.

Where I want to live when I grow up. 30th January 2012.

House sitting, day nine.

2012-01-30T19:13:00.001+11:00

The overlanding people got back to me with a form for the tour guide job. I feel a little overwhelmed, by the form and by the fact that they want $2,500 up front towards flights and training (they pay it back to you, $1,000 at the end of the first year and $1,500 at the end of the second).

I have been checking my email obsessively ALL DAY for the reply on the diving job. I should probably cut myself off from the internet.

I heard the chook again this morning. I went again and had a search for her. Then this evening, I spoke to the neighbour-over-the-back and he thinks he heard her, too. I might go back tomorrow and leave a trail of feed from the dense brambles where I think I heard her to the hole in the fence where I think she got through.

It has been an excessively delightful day (apart from the slight obsession problem). Soft, persistent rain all morning. Glorious, gentle sunshine all afternoon.

Housesitting, day eight

2012-01-29T22:57:00.001+11:00

Uncle Rob tried to put a comment on the blog, yesterday. The blog wouldn't let him, so he emailed it to me.

" ... Enjoyed reading your Blog this morning … which brings me to the reason for this email. The next Farmer’s Market is Sat next (4/2/12) 9 am – 1 pm. Would suggest possible barter of excess Zucchinis for 1 Chook (replacement) !?!

Keep well,

Uncle Rob.

"

I went hunting for the chook today, couldn't find her. I have more than 30 squash/zucchini sitting on the bench (I really can't eat more than two a day, though I am trying - they *are* delicious, if repetitive). I wonder if someone would take 30 zucchini in exchange for one chook.

It was rather warm here today, but the house was a champion and didn't heat up at all.

The dog has sent me to Coventry. I shouted at her this morning (for the first time), as she went to go into my room, and grabbed her collar. She dropped to the floor and wee-d herself and then went and put herself to bed and hasn't spoken to me since.

I took her with me for a walk when I went to look for the chook and she cheered up, tearing about in the long grass, but hasn't forgiven me.

Housesitting, day seven

2012-01-28T22:38:00.001+11:00

The dog has been banned from my room while I'm not in there because this morning I caught her stealing my bra out of my dirty laundry bag. I don't know what that's all about, but I'm having none of it.

The house is still cool, in spite of the heat. I have opened the windows to let the night breezes through.

I tried two new zucchini recipes today, and there are still 32 squash/zucchinis sitting on the kitchen bench. There are two comedy squash. One is the size of my head, the other looks like the 'my first Cthulhu' plush toy.

I thought I heard the lost chook this morning.

House sitting, day six.

2012-01-27T22:51:00.001+11:00

Another marvellous day.

I caught up with a friend I made while travelling and we exchanged gossip and were generally raucous and lacking in couth.

I spoke to a chap in Montreal this morning about potentially publishing my book and my mind is abuzz with possibilities.

And then tonight I thought I would have a look on Seek to see what is out there and found two jobs. One that is ideal if I am in a diving frame of mind and one that is ideal if I am in a travelling along the Silkroad frame of mind. I have applied for both of them. They were posted a while ago, though, so I suspect I am too late.

The day was warm and sunny, there is still only one chook, the dog was making smells so noxious that I banished her early to bed.

House sitting Day five

2012-01-26T22:57:00.000+11:00

The wind is wild tonight and I feel very all alone in the house.

There is more zucchini than any ten people can consume.

I dried more chamomile for tea.

I found some zucchini recipies on the net, but they are all 'serves 8' which will leave me in a similar situation to now, but with cooked zucchini.

The lost chook has not come home, but the not lost chook is safe and sound.

House sitting, Day 4

2012-01-25T22:43:00.003+11:00

I think I have to concede that one of the chooks is missing. I was hoping she had just laid an egg somewhere and was being broody on it, but I haven't seen her all day and she wasn't in the hutch tonight when I put the other one to bed.

I have had a good look around and haven't seen any feathers or other evidence of avine demise. Maybe she will come home tomorrow.

The dog is looking at me. She knows I am about to put her out for the night. She has been like a shadow. Where I go, she goes. She is rarely more than 3 metres away.

Today, I picked chamomile flowers to dry for tea. There are now more zucchini than are manageable. I was keeping ahead of them, but there were five new ones today, and I just can't eat zucchini that fast.

Housesitting, day three. Or, so happy, it's not decent.

2012-01-24T23:20:00.002+11:00

I just ripped my bed sheet with my toenail. Tomorrow I will tend to those.

I went to town today for a taskie feminist knitting picnic. It was marvellous. Then I caught up with a friend from school and a friend from travel.

Not even sunburnt shoulders and a 4 hour delay on the train have deflated me.

Housesitting, Day Two. Or 35 is the new 25.

2012-01-23T18:52:00.001+11:00

Last night the dog went berserk at something out the window and then realised that it was her own reflection. I have never seen a dog look so embarrassed.

Central Asia has reset my tolerance for heat. Enduring several weeks of temperatures around 50ºC will do that to a girl. Where once I wilted like a delicate flower in any temperature over 25ºC, I gambolled around all day today, delighting in the 35ºC weather. Imagine me in a long white dress, drifting around the garden picking fresh produce, smelling herbs and not stepping on bees.

The dog and I have reached a new accord. I have only lost her once, today.

Housesitting, Day One

2012-01-22T21:19:00.001+11:00

I am house sitting for friends for a fortnight. I will let them know what is going on in their absence so they know I haven't burnt their house down (failure to post on any given day does not indicate I accidentally set fire to their house).

Today there were people filming a footy clinic on the oval. There was an amusing juxtaposition of boys in black skinny jeans with ironic, slim-fitting flannel shirts and men in baggy red shirts and blue footy shorts. Running around at knee level were kids dressed in their team colours. Preponderance of Hawthorn and Carlton.

I trod on a bee.

I lost the dog once last night and once this morning. I turned my back on her for half a second, picking zucchini, and she was gone.

I found the dog, twice. I figure I am fine, as long as I keep finding her the same number of times as I lose her.

I cooked some of the sorrel with dinner. It was like baby spinach with a drizzle of lemon.

Dangers

2012-01-21T21:39:00.000+11:00

Port Fairy

2012-01-20T21:32:00.000+11:00

I like candles. No one else in the family does.

The roof of what used to be my room before my parents renovated.

I am going to miss this little guy. I named the two magpies after our Drago drivers. Even though I am pretty sure one of them is a girl. One of the magpies, that is.

Childish? Why, yes.

Port Fairy is my happy place.

I have always wanted a dress in those blues and pinks.

The boys. They hunger.

2012-01-19T15:14:00.000+11:00

One evening.

Dealing with the ham bone so that it will fit in the pot for pea and ham soup.

Singing for their supper.

I've always loved these door knobs.

The dog wants to chase the kangaroo, but only if it will run away. It is a bit big for a dog if it stands its ground.

Traipsing about

2012-01-11T16:28:00.000+11:00

Sky.

A dragon in the cornflowers.

Me and my little mate.

Since none of my friends will drink maté with me, I have started corrupting the next generation. I also accidentally taught him a rude hand gesture while trying to express frustration to his parents without saying a Very Bad Word and I also accidentally taught him to test the toxicity of something by putting it in your mouth.

I am a fabulous aunty.

I see you...

Delights.

2012-01-10T10:18:00.000+11:00

Did I mention I am doing the photo a day thing? I should probably put which days are which on these.

I would put up more, but iPhoto makes it too hard to put photos up the way that it works now and I don't have consistent access to the internet, so I am just putting the same ones up as I am on facebook.

It is probably just as well, really. Some days I am taking way more than one photo a day, and you probably don't need all those as well.

I probably don't need to say that I am loving living down in Port Fairy at the moment. My days are filled with cooking, cleaning, writing and getting adequate vitamin D, as well as the odd dip in the ocean and quite a bit of reading.

And walking on the beach everyday. I am feeling ridiculously healthy and happy.

And I have a rather delightful new tea pot for Christmas.

2012-01-09T15:07:00.001+11:00

One of the groynes at Port Fairy

Summer sky

Sleeping dog.

I've been away for a few days, so I have missed a few mornings.

I showed my dad and his only comment was that they were all the same. I love how different each one is.

Apparently, once you start feeding magpies, they never go away. Someone has already been feeding these guys because the come right up to you and take food out of your hand.

The other garden magpies.

How to dry your hair - Port Fairy edition.

Home

2012-01-07T20:29:00.000+11:00

This was the view up the beach on Christmas morning. I took the same shot on Boxing Day morning by accident, and then I have been taking the same view every morning. I love how different each one is.

Someone has been feeding the magpies, they are tame enough to come and eat out of your hand.

We have been going for walks each morning.

There are lots of happy dogs and walkers on the beach.

Also some poseurs. No, seriously. After this photo shoot, they took the board back up to the car and went home.

We saw two little boys fishing each day.

At our end of the beach, we have more sand than we know what to do with. At the other end, the dunes are falling into the sea, exposing the old tip and the old sewage dump. (It is where they used to dump the waste from the night carts before there was a central sewerage system that dumped it all out to sea. They don't dump it out to sea any more and the stuff in the dunes is super old.)

We got these two as puppies one Christmas (nine years ago?).

One morning we went for a walk NOT on our beach, we headed over to the south beach. I know! A shocking departure from the routine.

Woodend

2012-01-06T19:58:00.000+11:00

I caught up with friends before Christmas and we went to the polo (darling). Those ponies are handy and fit.

Veggie patch.

Playing in the park.

I am becoming well acquainted with the rail network.

Photos of home

2012-01-05T16:25:00.000+11:00

I have been sort of trying to take a photo every day since I noticed in July that I had taken a photo every day since May.

I have missed a few days since the tenth of May, but I am sticking at it.

A willie wag tail waiting for Badger to stir up some bugs.

Having breakfast with my aunt and uncle.

The reading room in the State Library of Victoria.

Christmas displays seen from the tram.

Dog herding ducks. Every so often, she'd gently lift one out of the pool by its head.

Oz

2011-12-31T10:55:00.001+11:00

I've arrived home and done the Christmas thing.

I don't really have internets access in Port Fairy (the kindle doesn't even work here properly, at least, not at the house).

But I am having a lovely time in the sun and the warmth. There is swimming and dog walking on the beach and all good things.

Hope everyone is having a delightful new year.

2011-12-21T10:25:00.000+11:00

I arrived home on my birthday. It was rather lovely to be back (and warm)

Though I did feel like I'd never left and like I'd never been to all those places.

The weather at home is rather lovely and looking good for Christmas.

I've left there, now, but...

2011-12-20T22:07:00.001+11:00

These were my last few days in Vancouver.

As you can see, the weather was superb. I don't think it rained the last six or seven days I was there.

The turkey and the ham each trying to convince you to go for the other.

A nest.

Christmas.

A hummingbird.

A tyre swing/ horsie.

A car on the way home from Aphrodite's. I got a piece of Chocolate Banana Cream Pie to eat on the plane on the way home, but it was clear to everybody that it wasn't going to survive the journey there, so I ate it for afternoon tea.

I caught the sky train to the airport and it was smooth, clean, warm, cheap and quick. Melbourne really needs to lift its game on transport from the main airport to the city. For now, if anyone needs to be picked up from the airport, give me a call.

Keep Calm

2011-12-05T07:34:00.001+11:00

Dry sunny days in Vancouver lead to Granville Island

2011-12-05T07:23:00.001+11:00

Written? Kitten.

Thanksgiving dinner

Still Vancouver

2011-11-27T14:00:00.001+11:00

2011-11-23T16:31:00.001+11:00

Anne McCaffery? Oh no.

Her 'Ship Who Sang' is one of my favourite books ever.

Autumn, hanging in there

2011-11-22T10:44:00.001+11:00

More Vancouver

2011-11-20T09:29:00.001+11:00

Vancouver

2011-11-18T10:47:00.000+11:00

Week of Madness

2011-11-17T15:51:00.001+11:00

From Edinburgh to Nottingham for Saturday night to catch up with a friend from Uni. And I met her new kid, which was all kinds of awesome. Nice kid.

Train from Nottingham to London on Sunday to stay with a friend of a friend.

British museum and catching up until all hours with friends from Madagascar on Monday. I noticed in the British museum that I could have saved myself the trip overland, because they had most of the stuff I saw right there. Anyone recognise the bull and lion?

Trip to Great Yarmouth on Tuesday to catch up with another friend from Madagascar. I nearly missed my connection in Norwich because we were delayed five minutes at Ipswitch because of platform availability issues.

Back to London on Wednesday to catch a flight to Canada. Unfortunately I made a tiny mistake with my ticket. I thought I was leaving Great Yarmouth at 9.30am, but it turned out that was the train I was supposed to catch from Norwich. I got the 9.17am from Great Yarmouth to Norwich, got on the 10am from Norwich to London and the nice man didn't throw me off for having the wrong ticket.

We were delayed five minutes at Ipswitch because of platform availability issues.

Got in to London Liverpool. Caught the tube to London Paddington. I missed the next train to Heathrow because I was confused about my ticket (I'd already printed it and didn't realise). Got to the airport just after 1pm. Got on the flight at 2pm. Took off at 2.25pm Watched five movies (The Bachelor Party II, Bad Teacher, Just Go With It, The Green Lantern, The Darjeeling Limited) to keep myself awake. Arrived in Vancouver at 4.15pm on the same day. Passed out unconscious at 8pm.

2011-11-05T06:03:00.000+11:00

It is marvellous how much better 10 hours of sleep makes you feel.

I am staying in the Royal Mile Hostel in the room 'Fridge' in the bed 'Corona'. When the girl at the desk told me, I felt heavy in my stomach. This was going to be a party room and I was not going to get any sleep.

As it turned out, I was sharing the room with a Malaysian couple, an Israeli couple and two girls from France. I slept through everyone coming to bed and I slept through everyone leaving in the morning.

I still secretly wish I was in the room 'Star Wars' in the bed 'C3PO'.

I set out in the morning, planning to walk to Arthur' Seat. I got to the foot of it (on the 'wrong' side), looked up and decided I couldn't be arsed. I had other excuses, like it looked like it was going to rain, but that didn't explain why I turned back and sat on that black seat you can see there and drank maté and read a book.

And watched some jaunty birds.

I visited the Edinburgh museum because every place we went to in Orkney they said, 'We had a fine example of BLAH, but it is in the Edinburgh museum now'. Even with directions and a map I found it a really frustrating museum and couldn't find the stuff I was looking for, the way they set up the exhibits followed a system that I sensed had an internal logic, but left me baffled and a little bit cross.

I did happen upon the drop spindles, though.

Can anyone explain the little naked dude doing some blacksmithing? I have done some blacksmithing and I would tend towards heavyduty, flameproof clothing that covered as much as possible. And safety goggles.

I went to the Elephant House where J. K. Rowling wrote Harry Potter because, well, you know. After I stood in line for 10 minutes, waiting to get in, I decided it probably wasn't worth it and went across the road to the villager instead. They had delicious, creamy, garlicky hummus. I can recommend it.

It rained and then the sun came out.

On the way home, I passed Ciao Roma. They had icecream in their front window. Award winning icecream. The apple flavour is sprightly and the chocolate flavour wants to be your friend. Gave Esfahan a run for its money and I recon Jamie would have to think hard about Amsterdam and whether it still stacked up.

Tomorrow Nottingham.

Edinburgh

2011-11-04T06:00:00.000+11:00

I arrived in Edinburgh to bright sunshine and warmth such that I had to shed several layers. The sun gave me the kind of heady euphoria usually associated with imbibing intoxicants.

So different from the last time I was here. A time characterised by deep unhappiness, darkness from 2pm to 10am, perpetual rainfall, and freezing temperatures I couldn't understand or deal with. Shit. Scuse the language but I just realised that that was 12 years ago (less six weeks).

I spent the afternoon wandering around in the sunshine, enjoying the warmth. The central purpose to my excursion was to go to K1 Yarns. I went. I was underwhelmed. Maybe because I know I am going to be in Vancouver in a couple of days.

If you have to ask yourself if I am really this immature, you don't know me:

I can remember weird bits of being in Edinburgh last time. Walking across the North Bridge in new shoes to go to a silver service waitressing job. The ATM around the corner from the hostel I stayed in. The curvy cobblestone road down to the train station. Going up to the castle. But I don't remember going into the castle or the station. I thought I booked into the hostel I stayed in last time, but it is around the corner.

I had to apply the rule about secondhand bookstores (I can look through the window, but not go in the shop). I tried to apply the same rule to the fudge shop I found, but the guy in there saw me and beckoned me in.

I had planned to go to the knit night at tea tree tea tonight, but I enormously can't be bothered. My perfect evening would involve going to bed in about twenty minutes and sleeping until sometime late tomorrow morning.

It is weird to be surrounded by people again after being up in Orkney. It is even weirder to hear foreigners. This hostel is full of Australians and Canadians.

Leaving Kirkwall, part II

2011-11-03T04:54:00.000+11:00

The final day in Kirkwall found me in a state of acute anxiety (don't ask me why, travel does it to me... I don't like change and travel forces me face the inherent liminality of life).

The Highland Park tour was very interesting, and helped take my mind of things that were making my heart hand stomach clench and my breath come short.

I really liked the malting room floor. And it smelled nice, like molassasy horse feed.

They used to have distillery cats, but some sort of safety/hygiene law came in a few years ago that means they can't get new cats, so they have to trap the mice that come in for the grain.

I kind of missed photos of a few of the steps - there was drying the malted barley and the washback vats. We weren't allowed to take photos in with the stills because there might have been an almighty Kaboom.

I never did find out why so many buildings in Orkney had this cut away bit.

A nice picture of an oak tree.

The party mould. This black stuff (low light, bit blurry) only grows where alcohol is stored to mature. It grows on the 'angels' share (the alcohol that evaporates during storage [about 1% a year]). That mould knows how to have a good time.

I got my photo taken with the family my brother lives next door to.

And, just to prove I am not a giantess, one with my brother for scale.

Saying goodbye to the brother at the ferry terminal.

To start with, I cursed my decision to catch the ferry to Aberdeen. I lay in the bed and found it impossible to sleep. Not because I was sea sick, but because I was terrified I was going to go flying off the top bunk because I couldn't find the safety rail they told you to put up. Finally I managed to wedge myself at the end of the bed and along the wall and felt secure enough to sleep with the surging up and down. I actually quite enjoyed the repetitive feeling of weightlessness at the peak of the wave followed by the lurch down into the trough.

Leaving Kirkwall (part I), or Proof, if it were needed, that I am a little odd.

2011-11-03T04:30:00.000+11:00

I ate the same lunch (at the reel) at least three times a week (not more than five) the whole six weeks I was in Orkney.

I find it easier to throw something out if I take a picture of it first. I get attached to weird things. So, I took a photo of the yimpas bag. The carrefour (jia le fu) bag. The random pink bag that I carried my cross stitch around in.

The Earl Grey Twinings box with Farsi that we kept score on for the 500 games. The Yak boots bag that my Yak boots came in. (No, Mum, I didn't throw the yak boots out. Maybe I can get them fixed in Vancouver?)

The view from my brother's place (thanks Orkers for the nice send off).

The path up to Wideford Hill (it is muddier than it appears in this photo)

Getting up around to the Cairn on Wideford Hill.

At the Cairn.

The Wideford Hill Cairn (you get in through the top. It is hard to believe that anyone ever went in through that front entrance, claustrophobia just looking at it).

The boat near my brother's place.

The slightly freaky looking pony near my brother's place.

If you didn't catch it the first time. Off-side eye.

Near-side eye.

Happy Halloween

2011-10-31T22:42:00.003+11:00

Yesterday I popped along to the Bishop' palace and the Earl's palace in Kirkwall. It was threatening rain and the Bishop's palace looked and sounded more exciting, so I went there first.

There was a great view out across Kirkwall to the harbour and it was nice to see the omnipresent cathedral from a different angle.

It did, indeed, start to rain, just as I got in to the Earl's palace, but one end of it is still roofed in stone. So I sat on the window sill in one of the old guest chambers and read (kindle, Living Dead in Dallas) until it passed. Then went exploring all over the palace and up and down stairs. One of the turrets was set up as a study with a little writing desk. I immediately added one to my imaginary house.

Today (Halloween) I took some photos of the shop windows. People are quite into the whole idea. The Scottish Hydro Electric is in the building that once held the Norse parliament. King James went there in 1540. And now it is selling whitegoods...

Florist.

Random Stuff Shop.

The Orkney Soap shop went with a Solstice/Beltane/Pumpkin theme.

The bookshop has spooky stories.

Kirkwall harbour

2011-10-28T01:15:00.002+11:00

It was quite still last night, very pleasant to be wandering around town after a day of torrential downpour.

The boats here remind me of home. (For nobetter reason than that they are boats, I think.)

I have myfingers crossed that it won't rain too much until I can get 'down south'. Thesoles of my boots have split and I don't have another pair of shoes and Ihaven't seen anything that suits/fits in the Orkney shops. Not to worry. Thereare worse things than wet feet for a few days.

I talked on skype for a good hour with myparentals and a cousin, this morning. I now miss home, pretty a lot. I amtrying not to think about Christmas.

I can't quite believe that I have bought aticket to Canada and that in two weeks I will be there.

And while I am here I am going to tuck thiscomplaint down at the bottom.

UK, I have a bone to pick with you. Crisps.Everybody bloody eats them with their mouths open. Everywhere. Maybe they arecrunchier here. Maybe I am out and about in public more here than I would be athome. But it feels like everywhere I go I am hounded by the crunch crunchcrunch of people enthusiastically scoffing down crisps.

Or maybe I am just a little irritablebecause I had such a crappy night of sleep last night.

Down South

2011-10-27T22:06:00.001+11:00

The last day on Papa Westray was cold.

It rained all day, but let up in the afternoon long enough that I didn't get wet when I walked to the airport. (You can see the airport below, no really, that's it just there). I took the world's shortest scheduled flight (2 mins) to Westray and then the 15 minute flight back down to Kirkwall.

Spent the weekend in Kirkwall nursing a cold. I managed to get out for a walk between rain showers.

Then took the ferry down to Thurso on Monday to meet up with the lovely Al and Alice to deliver their tea cosy. In Orkney, the island with Kirkwall on it is 'the mainland' and Scotland is 'down south'. I have also heard people here refer to people 'down south' as 'the Scottish', quite a different breed to the Orcadians.

The hostel I stayed in in Thurso was clean, but noisy. After a terrible night's sleep, I decided I couldn't face going exploring around Scotland.

I had pretty much decided that I was going to go home to Oz at that point. It seemed like the best of the options.

But then I was presented with an alternative option and now I have a ticket to Vancouver.

I am staying in Kirkwall until the 2nd of November. Then I will catch the ferry to Aberdeen, then the train to Edinburgh. On the 5th I will be on a train to Nottingham to see a friend from Uni who has had a daughter recently. Then I will stay in London for a few nights and then fly to Canada on the 9th.

It is a beautiful sunny day in Orkney, today. I don't know if I have made the 'right' decision in going to Canada (I don't even know what the right decision means any more), but I am going to pack the doubts away for the day and look at the sunshine instead.

St Boniface

2011-10-22T23:02:00.001+11:00

On Thursday I went for a wander up to St Boniface Kirk.

I had read the map before I left the hostel (though it is pretty hard to get lost on an island four miles long and one mile wide). And there was a convenient sign pointing the way.

I went looking for the round house they found there. Apparently Boniface stands on the ruins of a place of worship from the iron ages and there are the remains of a village around the kirk. I didn't find the round house, it was mainly just really cold.

Inside the church was quite simple (but lovely and warm compared to outside).

There were lots of well built, convenient stiles to use and I managed not to rip my skirt or thermals.

And plenty of mud.

I went back via the Knap of Howar. When I got there, it had started to rain, so I went in and sat on the quern, quite sheltered and reasonably warm, until the rain passed.

Knap of Howar

2011-10-21T06:05:00.000+11:00

On Wednesday afternoon I ventured out into the howling northerly gale (it was actually rated gale force) to go and check out the Knap of Howar.

As with so many of sites we've visited in Orkney, a muddy walk through the paddocks was involved.

I didn't stay long.

But I did go inside (you have to bend double to get through that doorway).

And in spite of the sun coming out for a second, it was blisteringly cold and I scooted straight back to the hostel for a hot chocolate.

I thought about walking along the shore to see the church, but lacked enthusiasm.

I went out for another excursion, between rain storms, to the 'craft store' at the post office and found yarn heaven.

The bantams stood on the window sills and eyed me off. I think they were hungry. And cold. (or that might have just been me).

It was beautiful. I cried.

On Wednesdays on Papa Westray people eat sandwiches because Wednesday is the day the ferry brings fresh bread from the bakery on Westray. There is a rush on the shop when it is open in the morning and another rush in the afternoon.

Tuesday on Papay

2011-10-21T05:29:00.001+11:00

This is how I spent Tuesday morning (actually, every morning so far on the island, alternating between book and computer).

This is how I spent Tuesday afternoon (actually, every afternoon I got out and about).

I didn't make it very far on Tuesday because of the northerly gale that chilled me to the bone. It gave me a deep understanding of why soup and hot drinks are so popular here.

Choice

2011-10-19T02:48:00.000+11:00

I've missed the 'cinema' on Papa Westray (it happens on Saturday night) and I've missed the pub (they open it ["it" is a cupboard of grog] after they've finished screening the film). But I can go to the cafe (on Wednesday morning).

There is only one place to get food on the island and that is at the shop which opens a couple of hours a day.

If you are on the island and need a cup of tea, they don't lock the door of the hostel and you can let yourself in to the dining room and help yourself to the tea making supplies. There is a little box you can pop some coins in.

There is some sightseeing to do, had two goes at doing that today, but got blown back indoors by the rain and hail both times. Hopefully the wind will be a little less sideways tomorrow.

I am so happy I want to kiss someone.

Colder and wiser

2011-10-18T04:40:00.001+11:00

No, I'm not in the slightest bit wiser, but the other bit is true.

I made a snap decision to come to Papa Westray (or Papay as the locals call it [I hear Papee]) today.

I needed a change and I've been quite interested in the little islands to the North. I rang the hostel to find out if they had any rooms (there is only one other person staying, together we bring the island population to 85). My brother gave me a lift to the airport an hour before the flight was due to leave. I bought a return ticket for twenty pounds (do you hear that, Eurostar? Do you hear?) and sat down in the waiting room.

If you are heading to 'down south', they have a departures gate. If you are heading to Papa Westray, you get let out the back.

Three of us got on the peedie plane (see how I used the local dialect there?) I've been in cars bigger than that plane. The woman I was sitting next to, Mari, offered me a lift from the airport because she was going in to the shop anyway.

When you stand on the runway, you can see the ocean on either side.

(and look, completely out of character, I have already found internet!)

Papa Westray

2011-10-18T00:51:00.001+11:00

Well, I am heading off for a few days to Papa Westray.

It is getting colder and colder here and I find myself yearning for the south.

Skies remain clear over Kirkwall

2011-10-15T23:46:00.003+11:00

I think this is the town hall. Or was, or something.

Most of Kirkwall is grey and square, but then you get little pockets of colour. The flowers are mostly gone from this garden, now, but the greens are still a welcome change from the greys.

I had applied for a job in Canada and assumed I was going to get it and was feeling quite content that the future was all planned out. I got the rejection letter yesterday and the brother suggested I go for a walk to think about what to do next.

I went off up the hill. The weather remains marvellous.

Cloudy, for sure, but it hasn't rained in several days, everything is drying out, and there is enough sunshine to feel quite cheerful.

I'm always a fan of hay. I think because haystacks were so much fun to play in when we were kids. They set the stage for many an imagined kingdom.

I love how the heather on the hill looks brown and unappealing from a distance.

But quite green and pretty from close up.

I later went down into the village to have a cuppa at Trenabies. I haven't been in there before because it looks a little uninviting from the street, but it has a staggering range of teas, so there is no doubt I will be back in there again.

I made my way back up the hill to my brother's place as the sun was setting.

Kirkwall really is a rather magical place.

Glorious sunshine

2011-10-13T01:39:00.000+11:00

The reel. Just to the left is a display cabinet with a guitar I have been wishing for. That would be foolish, though, because I am leaving soon and already have enough stuff to try and lug about.

Door.

Sunshine on Tuesday.

Thelwell's pony on Wednesday.

I have never seen such a perfect example of a Thelwell's pony in the flesh.

When I saw him on Tuesday, he was standing in the perfect Kipper pose, but I couldn't catch it when I went back with my camera on Wednesday.

The bottom of the path up to the brother's house.

A gate.

The cool old place behind the gate.

On a sunny day, everyone takes advantage of it.

Haggis and cracked pepper chips...

Afternoon sunshine.

2011-10-12T01:27:00.000+11:00

On Thursday, some Orkney children put on a performance for me on the way home from the library. It involved a dancing donkey, cow and banana skins. They had asked someone going past already to be audience and that person had just ignored them.

Sunset on Thursday.

Sunset on Friday

The white bull in the paddock near the house. They have cleared all the sheep out of this paddock, now and he looks a little lonely.

It doesn't feel very much like Scotland, here. Scotland is 'Down South', but there are signs.

I want to put cushions in the back seat of my car. And I want my car to be a mini.

Midday, yesterday. It rained in the morning and then this.

Kirkwall

2011-10-11T01:01:00.000+11:00

There would be drawbacks to living in Kirkwall permanently, but safety would not be one of them. Here are some examples of things that have happened.

I wanted to try on a shirt in a shop and was ushered into the stockroom out the back (with all of my bags) and could have stolen any number of things with no one the wiser.

I have been spending quite a bit of time in the reel and the other day there was a little old lady with a walker who needed help with the door. I opened the door for her to get out and she asked me to open the door around the corner for her. I walked out of the reel, around the corner and held open the other door the lady needed then came back. I had left my computer open on the table and my bag with everything in it under the seat and it was all fine.

If you have a parcel delivered and you're not home, the postman goes around the back of your place, opens the back door and leaves the parcel inside on the mat (presumably so that it doesn't get wet in the continual rain)

Apparently if a visitor/tourist does something wrong, like leave a B&B without paying the bill, they just stop the ferry until it is sorted out...

Italian Chapel, Lamb Holm

2011-10-05T12:18:00.000+11:00

On Sunday we crossed the Churchill barriers to explore some islands to the south.

We saw the Italian chapel, built by the Italian prisoners of war.

It is built out of two Nissen huts and concrete and felt and bitumen and stuff and is beautifully painted.

It is as spectacular, in a small way, as any of the godstuff we saw along the Silk Road.

Poor buggers must have been cold and miserable. They were building the causeways between the islands. It is super cold inside the chapel now, in October. I hope they didn't have to spend too many winters like this.

There was a concrete St George slaying a concrete dragon.

We also went to see Tomb of the Eagles. I was not expecting much, but there was a great little museum and, if you followed that link, you got to touch all the stuff in that first picture. You could feel how comfortably the tools fit into your hand, asking to be used, and you could feel the spectacular craftsmanship. Then we walked out through the sheep paddocks and then along the cliffs and went into the tomb itself. You could just go right into it and look and pretend you were 5000 years ago.

It is called Tomb of the Eagles because of all the eagle talons they found among the remains. They are excavating another one a little further round the coast and there are a lot of otter bones, so it is being called Tomb of the Otters.

On Monday there were showers alternating with gale force winds.

Tuesday, I finished off a tea cosy for a friend from the truck. Hopefully I will get to catch up with him and his girlfriend in the next couple of weeks.

Life has slowed down here and I am feeling much more relaxed than when I arrived.

Skara Brae, Skaill House, Stromness

2011-10-05T02:18:00.002+11:00

Thursday evening after the 17 degree heat wave.

Friday, the garden outside my brother's place on the way down to town.

The return of normal weather on Saturday at the standing stones of Stenness.

The Ring of Brodgar.

Skara Brae, built before the pyramids.

Skaill House.

Some lords or earls or someone lived here and they brought back stuff from all over Asia to stick in the house.

Stromness.

Looks like quite a nice place to live. They have a yarn store and everything.

Door.

Sunny Kirkwall (it rains at least as much as it shines in the five days so far, but the rain is a nice change and the sun is glorious)

2011-09-28T23:44:00.001+10:00

Visiting the cathedral with the brother.

Inside the cathedral.

Gaelic football.

How my feet ended the journey. I wonder how long the tan will take to fade...

A hayshed/ aircraft hanger thing.

Me in the heather.

A jersey cow (I think, it's the right colour, right?)

Fields.

Otters! Sea Otters!

On the left there, what I would mistake to be a mutant sheep, but I already know is a cow.

The cathedral.

A bone carved viking linen scraper from the museum.

Some teeny tiny linen knitting.

Up close so you can see the detail, even though it no longer looks so teeny tiny. Seriously, I think I would go blind trying to knit these.

Orkney

2011-09-26T01:27:00.000+10:00

Well, I have arrived in Orkney, utterly knackered (which is unsurprising, I suppose). It took me six days and three hours to get from Istanbul, Turkey to Kirkwall, Orkney. In hindsight, I did it a little too quickly, but I felt the pressing weight of ... something chasing me across Europe. I can always go back, right?

It was a beautiful autumn day yesterday, clear and sunny with not much wind. We walked down into the town and looked around. There is a beautiful cathedral made in the 12th century from red sandstone. It is very impressive and, in its way, as beautiful as any of the religious buildings I have seen on the way. On the way to the farmers' market we looked in shops (including two yarn shops) and soaked up the sunshine. We bought ingredients for a hearty stew and had a cuppa in the Judith Glue cafe.

Once we had started the stew in the slow cooker, it was off for a tramp up the hill behind James' place.

I have been feeling a bit panicky or something about, well, everything. I have about four conflicting ideas on what I should do next/now and I feel like the cat on the hot tin roof, not knowing which way to jump.

I suppose it is normal to be feeling a bit bleah after such a wonderful time on the truck (which was easy and always someone else being the boss and plenty of people around and things to do and see and no need to think about The Future).

London in 5 hours

2011-09-22T23:03:00.000+10:00

Arrive at St Pancras at 1.30 pm. Walk to Euston station, buy a ticket for the overnight train to Inverness. Feel slightly disappointed that they only have seats left, no sleepers. Check your luggage (it is per bag, so try and stuff one bag inside the other).

Walk along Euston Road then turn left down Tottenham Court Road. Turn right at Oxford Street, turn left down Regent Street

Go to Liberty and buy a ball of Rowan and look at the Tana Lawn.

Turn off down Swallow Street and have something to eat in the wifi cafe. Walk along Piccadilly to the Piccadilly Circus and Eros.

Walk down Haymarket then along Pall Mall.

Marvel at Trafalgar Square

Marvel some more.

And at the man on the plinth.

Walk down Whitehall Street and then along the Horse Guards Avenue to Victoria Embankment.

Gaze in wonder at Big Ben. Notice that it is 6.20pm and you probably need to get your skates on.

Quickly look at Westminster Abbey then bust down Birdcage Walk past St James park. Try and take a picture of a squirrel.

Quick photo of Australia Gate.

Stand at Buckingham palace for a ten minutes. Watch the men in red marching up and down. Wonder what they do with all those rooms. Wish for a second that you were actually staying for a day or two so that you could go for a tour.

Hurry down to Victoria Station and be back at Euston at 7.30pm for your 9.15pm train to Inverness.

Things that are weird about Europe.

2011-09-22T18:46:00.001+10:00

Tall people.

Putting toilet paper in the toilet.

Drinking water from the tap.

Hot tea with milk.

Green.

Rubbish in bins.

Fences.

English people.

Sound of Music tour, Salzburg

2011-09-22T06:39:00.000+10:00

The painted cow at the ticket place. A guytold a story about how Salzberg people painted and washed a cow a couple oftimes during a siege to pretend they had lots of food left and now called 'bullwashers'.

Thefountain where she flicked the water (I think) singing about confidence.

Thegazebo.

Wherethey filmed the scene in the boat when the captain came back.

Wherethey filmed the wedding, in the other direction there is the mighty organ(sorry, reading Pratchett again).

Wherethey filmed the bit at the start.

Where she runs down singing aboutconfidence.

The endof the Do-re-mi song. (Yes, I am that type of tourist and I have no shame).

The fountain they run around in the Do-re-mi song.

More Do-re-mi song.

I really enjoyed the extremely corny tour.We sang the songs on the bus on the way round.

I enjoyed the first 22 hours of the 19 hour train journey...

2011-09-19T05:40:00.001+10:00

It is nearly half past eight and I am trying not to be nervous about arriving in Bucharest in the dark, instead of at half past five.

Apparently the taxi guys try to rip you off and it is in a dodgy area of town. The hostel I have booked is supposed to be seventeen minutes walk from the station. My mind is obsessively going over the things I need to do - change money, find an ATM, get a ticket to Budapest for tomorrow, get to the hostel, get food and water for the train tomorrow, go to the post office, be a tourist and see the Roman Athenaeum. And all the while a counter thread of 'You're wasting the opportunity to see Bulgaria and Romania, all of those interesting villages you've passed, you should explore.'

I miss the truck. I miss someone else making all the travel decisions. I miss travelling with other people. I miss Jamie's farts and Jess's outrageous comments. I miss the steadiness of the two Johns. I miss Andrew's straight-faced humour. I miss Al and I miss Juan.

Friday morning in Istanbul

2011-09-17T20:50:00.000+10:00

The three of us started on Gertie in Bangkok and have made it all the way through to Istanbul. When Jess and Jamie joined us in Tashkent, we had been on the truck for longer than they had been married.

We had a go at going on a shopalopathon, but looked instead of shopped. Which is just as well, I am strangely attracted to the ugly ceramic cats.

We didn't even buy these fabulous undies.

Or this... stuff. (though I did buy a Christmas ornament for my mum in this shop. Expect a Christmas Squirrel coming your way, Mum).

And we saw some 'feed the birds, tuppence a bag'.

Then Jess and Jamie went for a Bosphorus cruise and I went home to organise my stuff and to go to the post office. I was suffering from lack of sleep and may have had a few bouts of tears over ridiculous things (but not, surprisingly, the fact that the parcel post part of the post office closed early and was shut by the time I got there and now I have a lot of things to carry to Bucharest. Yes, Bucharest. I bought a train ticket this morning for 10pm tonight. Why am I not going to Ismir with Asima any more? Her ferry from Ismir is no longer going to Alexandria, so she is no longer going to Ismir. I will have to come back to Turkey in the future to go and visit Ephesus. [I may have cried a little at the sudden and unexpected loss of my truck.])

I have the sudden conviction that I should have bought a ticket to Sofia instead of Bucharest.

Second day in Istanbul, being a tourist - 15th Sept

2011-09-17T15:50:00.003+10:00

After several weeks of travel through places with hardly any tourists, we were a bit overwhelmed by the queues on the first day. On the second day we braved the short queue to get in to the Aya Sophia. There were promises of scaffolding, but this was all we could find.

There were some domes.

And some knitting. (Bless Turkey for being cool enough to knit).

And some people.

The queue to get in to the Blue Mosque was epic, but we braved that, too. (After posing, I am a poser).

More domes.

The Basilica Cistern was properly awesome with GIANT carp and two Medusa heads.

And, um, *coff* the crying tears post (is that what it was called? I can only remember what Jess and Jamie called it and that is something I can't repeat in front of my mother.).

We had dinner under the Blue Mosque (no alcohol, more kebab). It loomed.

Ist & Bul

2011-09-17T05:49:00.000+10:00

Navigating Istanbul - we busted through the first 800 kms from Goreme and then spent hours on the last few. There were a lot of cars and stuff.

Istanbul, city of cats.

The Blue Mosque, we went on a huge walk on the first day, but were put off by the huge queues and didn't go in. Plus, we weren't dressed appropriately for a mosque visit (in spite of the clue being in the name)

An obelisk. It is very old.

We ate fish sandwiches near here. They were extremely fishy and we smelled like fish for a long time.

In spite of having walked more in the first day in Istanbul than I have for the rest of the trip put together, I went out again in the afternoon for a walk. It was a grand walk, but I spent more time looking than taking photos.

2011-09-14T23:19:00.001+10:00

I was a torn about the balloon ride because it is the most expensive thing I've done on the trip so far.

We got up at superearly in the morning (before the call to prayer).

And it was cold.

But then we took off as the sun started to rise.

And I got a few important things done.

And we got a good look at Cappadocia (which means land of beautiful horses - I got a free onyx souvenir because I remembered that)

I like to call this one 'boy twister in the truck'.

And this one 'bromance'.

I like to pretend that I took this picture of a tractor for my uncle Rob but, actually, I really like tractors. And haystacks.

We come from a land down under

2011-09-13T14:11:00.001+10:00

We are driving up out of Goreme with the rising sun, surrounded by hot air balloons, the Final Countdown blasting out of the newly fixed stereo. We are passing all the places Juan and I visited yesterday on the moped. The air is cool and tingly on our skin. And, far from feeling sad the trip ends tomorrow, I am 'splody with happiness. Time in these last few days has turned to warm golden caramel. Every moment is drawn-out and delicious. I'm not ready to leave Dragoman, but I'm going to enjoy every last damn minute left.

'Fairy Chimneys'

2011-09-12T22:19:00.000+10:00

2011-09-12T05:22:00.000+10:00

We are in Cappadocia. There is a distressingly short amount of time left before our little family breaks up and goes to all parts of the world.

Here are two Dragoman videos to celebrate the end of the trip. A Day in the Life and What is Overlanding? The two drivers in the videos are drivers I've had on this trip. Gaetano from Bangkok to Xi'an and Juan from Xi'an to Istanbul. They are both excellent.

Photos will follow when we stop running around being tourists for a minute. Leaving at 5am tomorrow morning for a balloon ride.

Friday 9th September

2011-09-11T00:01:00.001+10:00

Asima in the morning.

The town we stopped in on the way to the final bush camp. What is not to love about a town that has bouzouki shops and baklava shops right by each other.

Some rocks.

Final checking the dirt for final bushcamp and I missed every instance of pointing at the dirt, though in this case it may have been pointing at the prickles. I have never seen so many. And I accidentally squatted on a nasty one when I was trying to help put up a tent.

The view from camp.

Thursday 8th Sept

2011-09-10T23:55:00.001+10:00

We went shopping before leaving Dogubayazit. There were many wasps and they are attracted to the sweet stuff.

This is on the way up to the Stuffitupyourarse palace (so named because Al suggested we pop in after the seven hour border crossing and Handsome John, who had spent 119 days being sweet and mild mannered, told him to shove the palace up his arse).

Waiting outside the waiting room.

They have chucked a new roof on the old palace, I kinda like it.

This is Andrew taking a picture of me taking a picture of Jamie taking a picture of Steve (the donkey).

More scaffolding

Jess and the sheep.

A wee break

The town we stopped in before bushcamping for the night. I can't remember what it is called. It is about 500 kilometers west of Dogubayazit and there is icecream.

Second last chance to take a picture of the boys checking the dirt and they go behind that mound there on the left and thus the pointing and pondering is obscured. Very disappointing.

East is east

2011-09-10T23:20:00.001+10:00

Eastern Turkey is just as enchanting as the rest of Central Asia. Flocks of sheep watched over by dark-haired children are lit up by the late summer sun. The road follows rivers through fertile valleys. Golden haystacks and giant piles of dung hint at the cold coming.

Minarets still call the faithful to prayer. The houses are low squares, built of the surrounding earth with flat sod rooves. Many of the women wear head scarves, but in brighter colours than Iran. And it seems to be choice. Girls who wear headscarves walk down the street arm in arm with girls who don't. There is no hair piled high in rebellion with the scarf hanging as far back on the head as gravity will allow.

And in the supermarket I felt like I was at home in Brunswick. I knew I could get labne, rose jam and cinnamon for breakfast. There was pasta sauce and Swiss muesli and real bread and Rexona deodorant. Xingjiang province was supposed to be East meets West, but I didn't start feeling it till here.

I feel much happier here. A series of events have led to there being only six passengers and the two drivers. Everyone is an experienced traveller, it is very laid back and nothing is a fuss. The weather is cool, but with glorious sunshine. As we stood outside the Shoveitupyourarse palace this morning with bare arms and no head scarves, we soaked in the sun and I felt an inexplicable sense of well being.

Also, I don't want to examine too closely the joy that access to unrestricted internet brings me.

Kandovan, Iran, Tuesday.

2011-09-10T19:57:00.000+10:00

Goodbye Iran

2011-09-08T15:35:00.001+10:00

I want to sum up Iran, but I can't. I am pretty tired, I feel like I have run out of words.

Everywhere we went there were curious people who wanted to know more about us. We spent a lot of time reassuring everyone that we were loving Iran and felt very welcome. Everyone is aware of how Iran is typically portrayed in 'western' media and they are anxious to show that the people, at least, are super friendly.

I was expecting wearing hijab to be the hardest part of travelling in Iran. It turns out the hardest thing is not giving two thumbs up to express awesomeocity. It turns out thumbs up means 'up yours' in Iran.

That's fine, I thought to myself, I've been SCUBA diving, I'm accustomed to think of thumbs up as 'let's ascend' and using the okay sign to indicate 'she's all good'. I'll use the okay sign to indicate assent or approval. Nope. Turns out that means 'you're a man who has sex with other men'. There may also be an element of 'are you a man who has sex with other men?' Either way it is not good in Iran where gay love is not allowed.

It is easy for me not to flip someone the bird, no trouble refraining from the two finger salute, but you're going to have to cut off my thumbs to stop those other two.

The only other two things I would especially note about Iran are the piles of dirt, and the ferris wheel in every town.

I would like to come back some day.

Mainly driving in Iran

2011-09-08T08:36:00.000+10:00

We stopped at an excellent mosque on the way from Tehran to where we were supposed to bushcamp on Monday. It has had scaffolding in it for more than 40 years. There were some Italians working on it before the revolution and then nothing.

Asima in the morning.

Driving to the lunch stop

The lunch stop (there was only fruit and yoghurt, Juan and Al were devastated).

Driving in to Tabriz on Tuesday.

Doggy Biscuit

2011-09-08T01:22:00.001+10:00

Just crossed the border into Turkey from Iran. Another seven hour
crossing. Iran was quick, again. Turkey took forever and there were
xray machines in triplicate and sniffer dogs in duplicate.

The sun is setting over Mount Ararat and it seems a long time since
six am breakfast.

So it seems

2011-09-06T12:59:00.001+10:00

I quit my job.

Any one got any suggestions for what to do next?

Happy Father's Day in Australia

2011-09-04T23:20:00.001+10:00

I was going to write a post on what a good place Iran would be for my stepdad to visit. Based mainly on the high quality of the kebabs you can get here. Also, the weather would suit him and the people are super friendly. But then I remembered, no beer.

Happy Father's Day anyway, from beerless Iran.

Tehran

2011-09-04T23:18:00.001+10:00

Another sign for the ladies'. I love it when they have these signs because if it is just in Farsi, it is not straightforward working out which one is for girls. Also, I love the head scarf.

We went to the National museum this morning and it was marvellous. Full of patterns and interesting clever things. And this bull.

There were many surprised looking animals. I took pictures of lots of them, but only put up this one. The most surprised looking of all.

This is the seal outside the square near the museum. It is a lion and swords and things and it symbolises stuff.

Another town, another bazaar, and this one was even more vast and twisty turny than the rest.

You are allowed to show 15% of your hair from under your headscarf so the women do all manner of things to make it look like they have more hair under the scarf and can therefore show more out the front. The higher your hair, the better and it can be made to look higher with clever hair styles, hair bands, sneaky extra scarves wrapped round your bun and fake hair.

Hand knitted socks in the anthropology museum at the Golestan Palace (see how I looked that up, the name of the palace?).

Another sign for the toilet.

Kitten!

Me!

Us!

Them!

Outside the US Den of Espionage (aka. the former US Embassy).

Second Day in Esfahan

2011-09-04T01:01:00.001+10:00

The photo explanations:

The view.

The two girls make the initial foray and we practice English.

Negotiating a group shot.

The group shot.

"It will be a shawl" in any language.

A shot of the Imam square on the way to dinner.

The email that goes with them:
On the first day, after going as a group to Imam (which I am suddenly convinced is Iman) square and mosque and the Ali Quapu palace, Jess and I set off on our own to wander through the five winding kilometres of bazaar to find the Jameh mosque. In our secret hearts we were hoping to meet some local women and to be taken into their hidden inner world.

We wandered and gawked and asked directions to make sure we were still heading the right way.

We found the boys at the Jameh mosque, but failed at meeting any local women. The mosque was filled with that vast silence that makes it easier to believe in god.

Yesterday, I went to the park in the afternoon to drink mate with Juan. We sat in the shade on the grass and watched dragonflies hovering in the sun. When the wind blew, the first of the dead leaves drifted down, turning golden in the light.

All around us were groups of people enjoying Friday, which is the weekend in Iran. Also it was the end of Ramadan holiday and school holidays and delightfully not too hot. Everywhere were tea pots heating over gas burners and people snacking on nuts and seeds and the sweet stuff that gets served with the tea.

And then it happened. Two girls, cousins, 13 and 12, came up and we started talking. They were astonished and blushing to discover I was 33 and surprised to hear I had no children. (They told me, just as we were leaving that their mothers were 35 and 32 respectively). I showed them the picture of my 'husband' and explained that he was 'back at the hotel'.

They went and got their mothers and then aunty. My knitting was very good, very fine and the aunties, giggling, declared Juan very cute. All questions and comments about Juan were directed at me. When they asked what job my father does, I had to fudge a bit and say that he works in a bank, because I have enough trouble explaining what he does to fluent English speakers. One of their dads works in a bank, too, and so does their grandfather. When they asked what my brother was doing I decided to have a crack at explaining he makes whiskey. That was an amusing ten minutes of pantomime.

We gave them mate to try and then they went to get grandmother and brought over tea and snacks. Grandmother was shown my knitting, then the photo of my 'husband' was handed around again. He is very handsome.

The girls want to earn lots of money when they grow up and plan to study hard at university and get good jobs to achieve this end. One is very shy in class and the other is giggly and fiery.

I don't think I stopped grinning for the rest of the day. Especially as I was given a souvenir by a woman I had mistaken as the owner of the restaurant we ate dinner in and had some spectacular ice-cream on the way home.

More Esfahan. If you are sick of the Esfahan photos, I'm sorry coz I'm still on the first day. There will be more from the second day as fast as the internet will let me put them up.

2011-09-04T00:42:00.001+10:00

Chador shop.

Skyline.

Er... Motorbikes. More commonly seen barrelling through the crowds in the narrow twisting alleys of the bazaar.

Most of the dresses are sparkly in an awesome way (the ones in the Shiraz bazaars especially). These were...

Scary shop dummy.

Scary shop dummies.

The teapot/hot water set up that I wanted to buy and take home with me, but didn't.

The hidden alley off the hidden alley that led to Aladdin's cave/a tea shop.

Did I accidentally put two shots in?

The wall of radios for sale. I'd like to dedicate this to my brother.

The shot I took of the roof inside the tea shop before Al pointed out the 'No Photos' sign.

Boys playing in Imam square.

The theme shot for our time in Esfahan. Andrew got to 18 scoops (not counting the ones in the truck stop on the way to Tehran). I got to twelve (not counting the ones in the truck stop on the way to Tehran). On a side note, I think I've found a way of putting back on the weight I lost in Kyrgyzstan.

Bazaar and Jameh mosque

2011-09-04T00:17:00.001+10:00

Spices and leafy stuff.

Dried stuff.

Finger of God.

Flowery stuff.

Spots of light, who needs artificial lighting when you are as clever as the Iranians?

Bazaar being pulled down.

Bazaar being put back up again.

In the courtyard of the Jameh mosque. This had the door through to the Earthly something room that was built in 1088 and is carved and archy and columny and pretty. The other end had unearthly silence, but was not nearly as scenic.

Jamie and Jess showing due respect for Al's demand they get out of his bloody photo.

More light.

There is a pigeon looking in through the roof in the Earthly bit. I am not sure where in the list of photos it will appear because I had trouble attaching it, but it should be here. The same thing with the last post. There is a picture of the dome of the lady mosque with the light coming in making a shiny peacock tail down the side of the dome. I forgot to mention it, and I don't even know if it got in to the pictures.

The lady mosque at Imam Square and the Ali qa pu palace and some of the shops around the square

2011-09-03T22:58:00.001+10:00

Light on the floor of the lady mosque. The boss man built it for his ladies so that no one would see them while they prayed. He built a tunnel from the palace to the mosque for them to decrease the chance of illicit glimpses and to increase the likelihood of vitamin D deficiency.

The door out of the lady mosque (it has a proper name, but I am full of lazy this afternoon - it is opposite the Ali qapu palace [which I am pretty sure I have spelled wrong, but the laziness is widespread]

Under the lady mosque.

This is the bit under the lady mosque where you pray in the winter time. It reminds me of the underground carpark at Melbourne Uni, but with fewer roller blades.

Waiting for something... somewhere...

Looking up at the roof of the palace, the bit where the boss man (I should look up what he was called, as well) used to sit to watch the polo when he wasn't playing the polo.

This is under the roof in the previous picture. I don't know if you can read the sign, "Please, Don't Enter The Pond."

The next two pictures are evidence that Esfahan, while called the Pearl of the Orient, is actually the city of Morag, friend in Vancouver. This is the old music room at the top of the palace. Mustafa likened the acoustics in the room to those in the Sydney Opera House. The thin sheets of clay cut in the shapes of instruments do it some how. Also, it is somehow set up so that the ladies (who weren't allowed in there) could still hear the music clearly from another room. She should be in here hearing these acoustics, not me.

This is a painting of a lady. I don't know who she is, but in my mind I thought of her as Scheherazade and I call this further proof that this is the city of Morag. For some reason, every picture I have seen here of the Queen of storytellers looks just a little bit like Morag.

Pony, Stag, Pegasus.

Final proof, if any was needed that this is the city of Morag. Look at the size of that teapot.

Esfahan - Imam mosque

2011-09-03T22:14:00.001+10:00

Brace for photos. I am quite in love with Esfahan. (Come to Iran, come to Iran).

The first two are of something that we saw all through Iran. People camping in city parks and on the sides of the road. In lots of places they had picnic-rug/tent-sized concrete squares to set up on. It is the cheap way to travel, but in stead of going bush and doing it, you do it in the next time. It is especially useful when there are a lot of people travelling and the hotels are booked up.

The rest are of the Imam mosque at Imam square. The square is the biggest in the world after Tiananmen. The boss man who built it played polo there and there was a big drum that they hit whenever he scored a goal so that the city would know about it. The goal posts are still there at either end, but I forgot to take a photo of them. Just imagine a pair of giant concrete phalluses at either end and you don't need a photo to remember them either.

Little ponies with jingling bells and silent hooves trot jauntily around the square pulling carriages full of Iranian tourists. Yes, I did get a video. No, I don't know how to put it onto the blog.

Shiraz, mainly the bazaar

2011-09-03T21:42:00.001+10:00

On the alley out from our hotel.

One of the entrances of one of the bazaars.

Dried citrus fruit.

Pots and Pans.

Shoe repair.

Scarves.

Fabric shop. All of the sellers were men, even in the most sparkly, women-filled stores.

Boxes.

Guns and Ammo.

Ribbons.

The cutest boy in Iran.

Persepolis

2011-09-02T16:01:00.001+10:00

The first picture is of our marvellous Iranian guide, Mustafa. If you are thinking of coming to Iran (and you should) I will put up his details, did I mention he is marvellous?

Persepolis was something else. I think Persepolis was on the front cover of our year 7 history book. Certainly I have seen pictures of the stuff here all over the place. How did I ever try and convince myself to just stay at home and look at pictures of these places in coffee table books instead of travelling? So I am showing you the next three pictures of stuff that is in books, only I couldn't get the angles from the books because there was scaffolding all over the joint.

Then we have a picture of a sign. Look closely at the sign for the toilets.

Does anyone else see what I see in this picture? (sorry, Mum).

This famous stabbity bashidy picture is one I have seen a lot. It is some king protecting the palace from a symbolic lion - I think the lion was symbolic of the raging somethingness of humans.

Leo taking down Taurus (the Iranians were all about the astronomy).

A pony for Jayne (there were lots of ponies and I took lots of really bad pic